Friday, November 5, 2010

Trick-or-Treating in Phoenix

Day 116-118: Saturday, October 30, 2010 - Monday, November 1, 2010

Fun with the Ekstroms

“Mom?” Matthew called out to me a few weeks ago—I forget which state we were in at the time. “Yes,” I replied. “Will we be home in time for Halloween?” “No, we're going to extend our trip by a couple more weeks, remember?” “Then I just want you to know that I will be all out of candy,” he solemnly informed me. Holiday candy is a serious affair at our house. Halloween candy lasts until Easter and April's Easter & birthday candy lasts until Halloween.

Well, this year Matthew got to go trick-or-treating in Phoenix, dressed as a jedi knight, complete with light sabre. How cool is that!

We went to Phoenix to see Ken & Mary Ann Ekstrom and their two sons. Ken and Young-il were roommates at Caltech and best men in each other's weddings. Ken is one of those geniuses who could have easily gone on for a Ph.D. at Caltech but, instead, chose to go into international development work. After 5 years in Guatemala, he spent 16 years working with Food for the Hungry, based in Phoenix. Young-il and I visited them in Nicaragua in '96 when they were setting up Food for the Hungry's work there. We were struck by the overall poverty of the country and the success of the project's program to improve villagers' diet, economy, and self-sufficiency by introducing basic appropriate-technology gardening through local village leaders. Once F/H's program was in place and under Nicaraguan leadership, Ken and Mary Ann returned to Phoenix and Ken entered the private sector (but we expect it won't be long before they'll be back with Food for the Hungry once again).


It was wonderful to see them after all these years and to meet each others' kids. Young-il and Ken fell into Tech-speak. I plied Ken's encyclopedic knowledge for information about native American tribes in Arizona (Ken's parents wrote primers for the Hopi language and translated the New Testament into Hopi). And Mary Ann and I talked about homeschooling. We all played some family games. And Matthew got to go trick-or-treating in Michael's old jedi knight costume. We had a lovely time with some dear friends!

--Cindy

Sunrise at Yavapai

Day 115: Friday, October 29, 2010
Sunrise at Yavapai Point; Grandview Point; Tuscayan Museum; FlagstaffOur last morning at Grand Canyon we stumbled into the car to make for sunrise at Yavapai Point, where a crowd was already gathered. Photographers both professional and amateur, from all parts of the world, stood clicking merrily away at the sights around us. There was a large and rowdy Dutch contingent, other Europeans, and quite a few Chinese among the Americans.Leaving Grand Canyon, we headed east again, stopping at recommended viewpoints and the Tuscayan Museum and Ruins, much to Auntie Cindy's delight. These ruins are the most visited archeological ruins in the country, due to their accessibility.One last look down and I blew a kiss cheekily to the Grand Canyon. We hopped in the car and drove off to Flagstaff, where we spent the night.

O Mohave

Day 114: Thursday, October 28, 2010

Grand Canyon National Park; Rim Trail; Sunset at Mohave Point


Poking into the Visitor Center here was disappointing. I was expecting more—an exhibit or museum, a film, something. I mean, even Hot Springs National Park, a row of bathhouses had a 9-minute bathing film. Come now.


We hiked some more of the Rim Trail, and caught sunset at Mohave Point, which I thought was a preferable location. There were simply too many people at Hopi Point, clamoring around and complaining, not enough reveling in the show. At Mohave the sun was brighter, the glow fiercer, and the clouds thicker. If there was a show in the clouds, there was a symphony on the rocks. The rays illuminated the formations rosily and I was enchanted. Looking down at the canyon, I knew that I would be back and would hike Rim to Rim. I can hardly wait.

Elevation: 8000 feet

Day 113: Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Grand Canyon National Park; Rim Trail; Sunset at Hopi Point
Usually when at a national park, one encounters individuals wearing long dark green pants, a tan shirt, and a tan hat. These are usually Park Rangers. They are usually quite helpful and intelligent, dedicated and articulate. Consequently, they give Ranger Talks, which are usually quite informative and fascinating. Usually. This time, however, we lucked out. Our Condor Talk instilled in me a keen desire to hunt condors, out of revenge for the rambling, fluffy drivel we had listened to. Looks will only get you so far, Ranger James.In an effort to recover from our trauma, we hiked part of the Rim Trail, from Bright Angel Lodge to Maricopa Point, breathless at the expanse of the canyon below and the high elevation.Every now and then we stopped to gape at our surroundings. The land below rippled in rugged and colorful patterns, layered around various cliffs and mountains, and carved by the thin ribbon of the Colorado River.We relished sunset that evening from Hopi Point, at an elevation of 7,071 feet, and we consequently quite cold. I chatted with a group from southern Florida, another from Tennessee, and the poor people were unprepared for the frigid air and were suffering here. I was very thankful for my hat and gloves that night.
We then discovered that the previous night has gotten down to 34 degrees Fahrenheit, and was to be even colder this night. Oh good.

"I Wonder If Jake Farted"

Day 112: Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Zion National Park; Grand Canyon National Park Heading out of the National Park, we cruised along the Mt. Carmel Highway heading west, Zion's famous road, featuring some crazy tunnels that went on for so long all you could see was darkness until quite suddenly the sun flooded you with her dazzle, blinding you upon your return to the real world.
'The horizontal lines, commonly called crossbedding, represent layers of windblown sand that built up into sand dunes. These dunes were then buried, and the sand grains glued together by calcite and iron oxide to form sandstone. Crossbedding can be seen in many places along the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway.

'The vertical lines are less common. They are actually shallow cracks that result from stress and erosion on the rock surface. These cracks are probably caused by expansion and contraction, temperature changes, wetting/drying, or a combination of these processes.'
En route to the Grand Canyon, we drove onto the Navajo Reservation once more, marked by the collection of booths and tables decorated with fine handicrafts and jewelery along the side of the mountain road. Auntie Cindy and I could not resist. We decided to make a quick stop to marvel at their works and see if any were worth purchasing for New Day for Children. This 'quick stop', of course, ended up taking a couple hours, as we engaged in several conversations with these Navajo women.

One woman, Lynn, explained to us that they all belonged to a group on the reservation from which they had to rent these spaces on the side of the road to sell. With the tourist season slowing and coming quickly to an end, these women were braving the heat and sun and idiotic questions for very little business. While we stood examining the intricate and beautiful jewelery on display, dozens of other tourists stopped by to do the same; hardly any purchased even a small piece. The prices these ladies were offering were so incredibly low that we wondered how they eked out a living. Lynn confessed that it always got difficult every winter, “But,” she said with a smile, “it always seems to work out.”

Several of the women from whom we purchased jewelery, upon hearing about New Day, donated pieces to our cause. These were mothers of young girls, who had heard of the sex trafficking and slave trade and were comforted to know how their jewelery would be used.

Another woman, Susie, proudly pointed out the pieces that her 11-year-old daughter had made, having learned her mother. She dearly loved her daughter, Mariah, and agreed with me when I told her Mariah was quite gifted.

Consequently we entered Grand Canyon at just about sunset, and the Ranger at the gate recommended we catch sunset at Desert View, the first lookout from the Eastern entrance.

Once again, the wind bit at my face and hands and bare legs, and I regretted not grabbing my gloves and another jacket before running to the overlook. I was simply too excited to catch my first glimpse of the famed Grand Canyon. My theory in preparation for and all along this trip has been blissful ignorance. I have avoided finding out what I am supposed to be seeing before I get there; I just want to arrive and be amazed and caught unexpected.

And I was. Despite the coldness at the South Rim, there were still quite a few tourists about. And just as I reached the railing and was breathing in the canyon air, the tourists disappeared. Startled, I glanced around.

Where'd they all go? I wonder if Jake farted.” I laughed out loud and looked for whom had spoken.

The speaker was a blond woman standing beside me, and she was referring to her 12-year-old son with a bemused smile. She was one of the most fascinating people I have yet met. She and her son are from Western Australia and have been traveling around the States and Canada since August, all the way up the West Coast to Alaska, and off to New England until December 21st, when they return to Australia. She exuded life and curiosity, genuineness and sweetness, and I was charmed. We conversed back and forth of the sights we had seen, the people we had met, the experiences we had enjoyed. It seemed she was as curious about me as I was about her.


But really,” she said, turning her whole body towards me. “It has been a long trip, several months now, and he really does fart. Stinks up the whole RV, he does.”

We then came to the part of the conversation I had expected, pertaining to my relation to Matthew, who was waving his stick around making exploding noises: “And is he yours? ...Or your husband's? ...Boyfriend's?...Or...partner's?”

We set up camp that night where the high elevation drove the temperatures below freezing. The only excitement was when I ran off into the dark to the bathroom with no flashlight and fell over several large rocks, cutting open my toe and sending me sprawled on my back in the dirt. It was pretty hilarious.


On an unrelated note, this was also the night I began reading Donald Miller.


When I Look at the Stars...

Day 111: Monday, October 25, 2010

Zion National Park

In retrospect, Zion was pretty; at the time, however, I was very impatient. Sure there were blue skies and tall peaks and red-orange rocks and trickling waterfalls, but so what? I suspect after the beauty to which we are accustomed it was somewhat of a letdown looking upon Zion's landscapes. Particularly since we now had Uncle Young-il with us, I had really hoped to show him firsthand the wonders we have seen along the way. And quite frankly, Zion did not measure up.

Maybe we ought to have hiked more.

Unlike most of the other parks we have visited, Zion operates a free shuttle that buses tourists and hikers around the park to trailheads and lookouts and the like. A few years ago the traffic jams were simply too outrageous, so they redid the entire system and now everybody parks and takes the shuttle—much more fuel-efficient, so props to Zion.

The Mormons were definitely here. They named much of the mountains and natural features, such as the Virgin River, the Sacrificial Altar, the Golden Throne, and the Three Patriarchs.

We hiked a bit but it was quite brisk out and night was falling fast, so we headed back to camp, where we stoked a merry fire. As cold as it was in the sun's absence, I deeply enjoyed poking the fire, standing in the pit, and craning my neck backwards to take in as many stars as possible. There were so many and I felt so small and the feeling was immediate relief. That is why I love looking at the stars; they remind me that my concerns are trivial and inconsequential in the grand scheme of things.

Vegas Baby

Days 109-110: Saturday, October 23, 2010 - Sunday, October 24, 2010
Las Vegas: Young-il Joins Us

We encountered snow as we left Bryce Canyon National Park and descended the mountains. It actually snowed! You never saw three such excited travelers. Gradually we left the red soil through which we'd been traveling since Georgia and entered the gray terrain of Nevada. Our first glimpse of Las Vegas was as we came over the mountains. Night had already fallen and the glow of lights spread out before us. From an urban context, it may have appeared beautiful. Having been camping outdoors in state and national parks with stars sparkling in velvety black skies, all I saw was light pollution.

We found the KOA, the only campground in the Las Vegas area. $40/night for a piece of pavement in a giant parking light surrounded by giant lights, parking garages, and flashing billboards. I couldn't get out of there fast enough. Quickly, we left the glitter and artifice and headed 25 miles west for Kyle Canyon State Campground. Ah, back in God's beautiful natural world again.

The next day was a joyful day of reunion as we picked Young-il up at the airport. He came to join us for the last two weeks of our trip.

On Sunday, we broke camp and headed for Zion National Park, happy to be back in the beautiful red canyons of southern Utah.


--Cindy