Friday, November 5, 2010

Grand Staircase-Escalante

Day 106: Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument; Bryce Canyon National Park

After the sunset, our only indicators of the breathtaking scenery were the winding roads and the looming slabs of rocks that suddenly appeared off to our sides in the night. With sunrise all was illuminated, first ever so softly, and then brighter and fiercer, as if the sun were falling steadily and deeper in love with the land.

As we drove further and further up into the mountains once more, we glimpsed snatches of the glory below, until everything dropped suddenly away for a full-blown panoramic vista. Why this area is still merely a National Monument I have not the faintest idea.

From our perch we saw distant mountain ranges and plateaus, one plateau in particular on which duck-billed dinosaur bones have been uncovered. This single discovery has completely changed archaeologists' interpretation of the history of the area.

Excitement was brewing in our veins as we made for Bryce. Almost immediately after passing the sign welcoming us into the park, Matthew spotted a couple mule deer grazing by the side of the road, intrepid and content, darker than any we had yet seen and considerably scragglier as well. Pulling in at a good time, we snagged a campsite inside the park and popped into the Visitor's Center. That night was quite possibly the coldest night we yet experienced. Camping at about 7000 feet is no laughing matter. Sweatpants and long-sleeve shirts were required, even for this obstinate Bostonian.

We were in high spirits, however, still chuckling because the Park Ranger we met in the kiosk upon entering was from Concord, CA, and had lived in the area for a long time. It is a small world.


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