Friday, October 29, 2010

Arizona's Badlands Were So Good

Day 97: Monday, October 11, 2010

Drive from Albuquerque, NM to Holbrook, AZ

With the Balloon Fiesta over, the KOA totally emptied out. Before heading out, we chatted with a few couples on their respective ways out, about the Fiesta, and other National Parks they have seen. There is something to be said for the camaraderie that develops between road-weary forever-curious travelers. We share beautiful places, incredible people, factoids and stories, laughs and headaches, advice and time. What more could you want?

One couple was from Edmundton, Alberta and, having heard we had traveled to BC and AB but had no sticker on our map, they gave us a Canadian sticker for our car. We had only met them the day before. But such is the kindness of strangers, upon which Ms. DuBois relented.

And then we hit the road, Jack, for Holbrook, Arizona, where we found a sweet man with crooked teeth selling petrified wood out of the back of his truck.


Day 98: Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Petrified Forest National Park

As I was packing up the tent the next morning at the campground, I noticed an older woman walking in my direction, so I smiled and greeted her. She walked right on over and began telling me about this van with a map of the States and a funny backpack on its end. I burst out laughing, saying it was probably us. She squinted at me, looked closer at Matthew, and asked if we were traveling with a blond woman.

It turned out that we had met her before at a gas station just across the South Dakota border. She and her husband were on a different trip back then--almost four months ago. Funnily enough, at that same gas station was a man with a beautiful Harley in a trailer, that recognized us a few days later from that gas station as well. Hilarious. I guess something about us attracts attention. I wonder what that could be...

Our stint in the Petrified Forest National Park began at the Visitor's Center and Museum, where we learned about the area's long ago occupation by the phytosaurs, large crocodile-like dinosaurs. The Forest itself was formed when a forest millions of years ago collapsed and was washed into the neighboring river. Years of sediment and pressure preserved the trees by depriving them of oxygen, as various minerals permeated the wood in a process called premineralization, the process in which the organic tissue of a tree is replaced with silicate

and other minerals.

Walking around the Forest was simultaneously amazing and depressing. We were stunned by the variety of colors in the minerals of the pieces of petrified wood--pieces that were just laying out beside the path. We marveled at the aesthetic aspect of copper, carbon, iron oxides, and manganese. At the same time, however, we were disturbed by how few samples were available in the Park. Over the years, people have stolen pieces from the Park, dramatically depleting a national resource that can never be replaced.

While it is true that property owners in the surrounding area are allowed to sell any petrified wood unearthed on their land, far too much wood has been removed illegally. What a devastating decision.

All the same, it was awesome getting to see what used to lay under the ocean! The Painted Desert was very similar to the Badlands of South Dakota in a surprising way--all those layers of curvaceous rock streaked with iron oxides rippling under the hot sun. Gorgeous.



A Fiesta of Balloons...and Bodies

Day 94: Friday, October 8, 2010

Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta

Whilst in Albuquerque, I was, for the most part, hunched over a laptop in the laundry room at our campground, resigned to listen to an awful local radio station for hours at end. College essays.

Friday night, however, we finally went to see what all the fuss was about at the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta--the largest hot air balloon festival in the world. An estimated 750 balloons attend every year.

We were present for the Special Shape Glowdeo, an event during which an announcer calls out various criteria and a countdown encourages the selected balloons to 'light up' or shoot fire into their envelopes. The roaring of flames from the burners, revealing the beautiful designs of the hot air balloons in the darkening evening sky, and the subsequent shouts of delight from the crowd were incredible. There were simply people everywhere.

A typical snob, I was not expecting much for the Fireworks Show. I thought we had seen far and away the best fireworks show in the Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Columbia, and that was including all the Boston Fireworks celebrations (New Year's and Fourth of July) to which I had been privy. But Albuquerque was pretty incredible as well.

I think the secret to fireworks that I had not anticipated was the effect of the people with you. I knew that there were no two other people I would rather have been with at that moment in time and I loved them for it. It was frightfully cold and we all shook and chattered, snuggled together for warmth in the middle of this sea of people in a large field, but it was perfect. Yes, fireworks are an incredible art form, requiring various chemical knowledge to affect sound, color, timing, height, and diameter, and the act of weaving them together is akin to composing an orchestra, but I did not care. I loved the people I was with. It was a perfect moment.

The balloons continued to light up after the show, but we opted for looking around the booths lining the road. We returned to camp quite tired yet satisfied.

Day 95: Saturday, October 9, 2010

Flash Balloon Chasers

The next morning we awoke before dawn to join the crew for Flash, a hot air balloon from Texas. He was owned by a sweet couple, Jim and Sharon, both tough and sharp and driven. With them were Jim's uncle and his wife, Bob and Helen. This was our crew. The deal was if the three of us helped inflate the balloon, get it in the air, and put it away, we could have a free ride. Usually these rides run for $300 a head. We were excited.

We followed Jim's truck out into the desert outside the city and pulled into a perfectly ordinary-looking parking lot by the side of the road. Slowly more and more trucks pulled in and people began to gather. Matthew and I snacked on GORP while Auntie Cindy socialized with the womenfolk.

When Helen and Sharon joined Matthew and me, I discovered that they were both sweet and friendly, talkative and curious. My kind of folks.

Unfortunately the winds were too strong and blowing towards a nearby airport, so the balloonists opted out of flying that morning. They were disappointed, but not surprised.

The Flash crew, sad that our trio had not seen Flash inflated, took us to another parking lot to at least tether the balloon. There was the basket, which came in two pieces; and the envelope, a suffocatingly enormous swath of tough nylon. We had to assemble the basket, attach the envelope, and then hold the fabric in place while Jim wheeled over a huge fan. It was hard work pulling that envelope open against the buffeting wind and forcing it in the right part of the balloon. But it was so worth it!

Flash was a beauty when inflated. We got to hop in and see how it functioned. Nowadays all the gadgets are electronic, including the positioning gear and GPS and fuel gauges et al.

Taking Flash down was even harder. We had to squeeze and coax, battle and punch every bubble of air out of the envelope before we could put it away. The entire balloon fit in a relatively small bag, the size of a grizzly bear. Surreal.

Day 96: Sunday, October 10, 2010

Farewell Mass Ascension; Bodies: The Exhibition

Sunday morning the trio awoke once more in the wee hours of the morning to head to the Balloon Fiesta for the Farewell Mass Ascension. It was absolutely frigid and I was bundled in so many layers it was amazing I could still move and flap around. Surprisingly, there was quite heavy traffic for that time of the morning; apparently others were in the know and were staking out a spot.

As the fine fingers of dawn peered over the horizon, tinging the morning sky with color, all of the balloons were still tethered to their trucks. The announcer repeated that the wind conditions were unfavorable, as the day before. Then, quite suddenly, one balloon lifted off and floated across the sky. It was quite dangerous in the limited light and violent winds, but he was a risk-taker.

As the morning warmed up, slowly more and more balloons joined the first in the sky. The balloons themselves were incredible--of all different shapes and colors and sizes. Many were the typical upside-down teardrop shape, but others included a Pepsi can, Darth Vader's mask, Humpty Dumpty, a cow, a stagecoach, and Spongebob Squarepants.

The balloonists were from all over the world, many of them displaying the flags of their countries of origin. One red one took to the sky bearing a large gold star for China.

Soon the sky was filled with balloons. Every time one would take off, the group of spectators left below would cheer and wave, take pictures and hug, and then move on to the next balloon. They were such bright and cheery colors, lighting up the sky, so innocent and carefree, that I felt inside myself the feelings of wonder and awe returning from my childhood. I think there is something about the balloon's ability to defy gravity that intrigues us and captivates the imagination. Perhaps we look with fascination, perhaps with jealousy; regardless we are drawn to these spheres floating in the wind.


We poked around the booths once more, indulging in lemonade and some wool hats from Ecuador and Guatemala, and then we headed out of the area now roasting in the sun.

That afternoon we did something altogether unexpected. In fact, I had first suggested it as a joke, much to Matthew's disgust. We visited Bodies: The Exhibition. Weird, yes?


Auntie Cindy insisted such a visit did not have to be morbid; we could just be curious individuals. I thought it would be morbid. I wore a zombie hat in celebration.


I loved it. I flat-out adored it. I was absolutely captivated by the minutia of capillaries, nerves, neurons, and aureoles that networked through our bodies, the intricate systems forged between each part of the body, the grandeur of the human body as an entity. I pretty much gawked at naked Chinese people for a good two or three hours. Allow me to explain.


There is a huge controversy regarding this exhibition because all of the bodies are from China. These were all Chinese people. There are an awful lot of bodies in these exhibits. The Chinese government alleges that the bodies belonged to ordinary citizens with no living kin who died of natural causes; perhaps this is true. There are some, however, that speculate that these bodies may have once been prisoners and therefore did not die of natural causes. The debate rages on.

My main question is this: If the technology to polymerize the body's tissues was officially discovered in 1995, how in the world was the technology discovered? How many other bodies were used? And where did they come from?

I should also mention there were fetuses in jars.

Quotes from Wikipedia:


'ABCNews' program 20/20 produced a major report exposing the 'secret trade in Chinese bodies.' Claiming that bodies are sold on the black market for $300, the report spawned not only a series of other articles but also a Congressional inquiry, an investigation by the NY Attorney General, and the resignation of Premier's CEO Arnie Geller.

'In 2008, the front page of the exhibition website had a disclaimer describing the presumed origin of the bodies and fetuses:

Disclaimer:

-This exhibit displays human remains of Chinese citizens or residents which were originally received by the Chinese Bureau of Police. The Chinese Bureau of Police may receive bodies from Chinese prisons. Premier cannot independently verify that the human remains you are viewing are not those of persons who were incarcerated in Chinese prisons.

-This exhibit displays full body cadavers as well as human body parts, organs, fetuses and embryos that come from cadavers of Chinese citizens or residents. With respect to the human parts, organs, fetuses and embryos you are viewing, Premier relies solely on the representations of its Chinese partners and cannot independently verify that they do not belong to persons executed while incarcerated in Chinese prisons.

'New York Attorney General Andrew Cuomo concluded his investigation of Premier, finding "The grim reality is that Premier Exhibitions has profited from displaying the remains of individuals who may have been tortured and executed in China. Despite repeated denials, we now know that Premier itself cannot demonstrate the circumstances that led to the death of the individuals. Nor is Premier able to establish that these people consented to their remains being used in this manner. Respect for the dead and respect for the public requires that Premier do more than simply assure us that there is no reason for concern. This settlement is a start."'

And even assuming the bodies were legally obtained; does that make it morally conscionable? What does the success of these exhibits say about us as a society? Are we pushing science too far?

Old City Albuquerque

Day 93: Thursday, October 7, 2010

Albuquerque Rattlesnake Museum; Flamenco dancing


So now that we had made it all the way to Albuquerque--all the way from the Bay Area via Alberta, Minnesota, and Georgia--I was somewhat puzzled that the city warranted a stop. I had hitherto thought it merely a funny looking name of a city "down in the Southwest somewhere". These things are all relative to a Boston girl. But I had an open mind.

We had pulled into the campground late the previous night and were somewhat alarmed by our neighbor there--an older man with bloodshot eyes, an open beer, and an overwhelming desire to talk with us. He was perfectly sweet, very cordial, both helpful and kind; yet one could not help feeling his desperation rank in the air surrounding him. I'll be frank: It made me uncomfortable.

So here was the dilemma. What to do? Do I take the time to converse with this man who so clearly needs human interaction, despite my personal discomfort; or do I continue minding my own business, going my own way?

I settled for being friendly and talkative but not overly friendly, which I am wont to do. It was a feat.

That afternoon we went to the Albuquerque Rattlesnake Museum and learned about the behaviors, diets, and terrain of various types of rattlesnakes. These fearsome critters are incredible. They are highly evolved creatures, equally suited for land and water--and they don't even have limbs! They blow my mind. While there we also saw a David Attenborough film about snakes that featured an enormous python stretching its jaws around a pretty sizeable deer. Since the python has no lips, it had to move each individual part of its mouth over at a time, until it had engulfed the entire kill. The python stretched its jaws so wide that giant tears were created in its skin, a pretty common side effect of such a meal. I mean, it was bleeding and everything. That is dedication, my friends.

Before we could leave the Old City, however, we heard that the flamenco dancers were coming onstage and we simply had to watch. I have deep respect for all dancers, due to my own lack of coordination and grace, but these flamenco dancers were phenomenal. They were from a nearby Flamenco Academy and ranged in age from 4-24. The dancers amazed me with their grace, athleticism, and skill. I think we were there for a good two or three hours.

Matthew was not pleased.

Transmission from P. O. Box 1663

Day 92: Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Bradbury Museum at Los Alamos Lab in Los Alamos, NM
Drive from Santa Fe, NM to Albuquerque, NM
I was not happy to be leaving Santa Fe; the above should make that abundantly obvious. Matthew was likewise upset. He had quite loved the Borders bookstore.

But Auntie insisted we do something interesting and educational, and she was driving, so off we went.We drove along some absolutely stunning stretches of land on our way to the top-secret Los Alamos National Laboratory that one hears so many whispers about. The parents of some of Matthew's friends once worked at the genius lab, so we were curious to learn more about its history and current role.We swung by the (completely free!) Bradbury Museum and learned about the lab of fame. Los Alamos was created to house the development and testing of bombs during World War II by the unlikely pairing of a soft-spoken scientist (Dr. Robert J. Oppenheimer) and a blunt, bold military man (I forget his name; I'm carsick). General Leslie R. Groves.

The entire town was given birth around that premise—that young intelligent scientists and their wives and children would need resources to blot out the creepiness of the federal government summoning you into the middle of the desert for an unspecified amount of time for a confidential purpose. The town did not technically even exist; on everything from government documents to marriage certificates to birth certificates the address given was a mere p.o. box number. P.O. Box 1663.
The museum was pretty good, very informative and quite factual. My (somewhat old-fashioned) concern with modern museums is that they try to oversimplify concepts that should not be simplified without distortion occurring. The Bradbury Museum was not the case. We were tested spatially and allowed to experiment with conduction; we learned the properties of uranium and the challenges of nuclear waste. We did not have sufficient time.
But all the while, as secretive and controversial as the Manhattan Project was, I could not help feeling jealous of those scientists and workers--not jealous of the job necessarily, but the nuanced richness of the vistas surrounding them. I loved the sweeping hills of red dirt, the fierce scraggly bushes clutching desperately for life, the jagged sedimentary rocks, the endless compassionate sky. I truly love the desert.

Meet Me in Santa Fe

Days 90-91: Monday, October 4, 2010 - Tuesday, October 5, 2010

St. John's College in Santa Fe, NM

I shall now attempt to be brief; this should prove interesting.


My thoughts on St. John's College in Santa Fe? I loved it. Really, truly, honestly adored it. Boom.

My Zimbabwean tour guide was funny, sweet, and articulate. She showed me around the (significantly larger) campus and then led me to my first class, a sophomore music class. And with that my time on campus officially began!

All the students I met were intellectual, curious, confident, and determined (except many of the freshmen of course). These were people with whom I wanted to meet and talk and become friends, and in many cases, did. The tutors were extremely intelligent, hopelessly kind, and quite unorthodox (and by that I mean crazy). The faculty were funky, friendly, and fashionable. The guy in charge of skiing and rock-climbing had bright green fingernails with flowers painted on them. A for effort.

Everything went smoothly and I am definitely applying to St. John's this fall. So regardless of how the college admissions process treats me, at least I know that I could be perfectly happy in Santa Fe. Because shouldn't you love every college you apply to?

P-L-U-T-A-R-K?

Day 89: Sunday, October 3, 2010
Drive from Hinton, OK to Santa Fe, NM
We messed with Texas. But only very quickly, for they are prone to violence, as each good Texan keeps a rifle handy at all times. The terrain in the panhandle was pretty dry with sparse small shrubs and clumps of grasses. Then it rained. And then we crossed into New Mexico and it stopped. Curious.Like a good Johnnie prospy I was reading Plutarch's Lives during the drive. I will spare you the details, but suffice it to say that Plutarch is quite funny and not at all dry and musty like I expected. His writing honestly made Brutus and Antony consolidate into actual humans in my mind—perhaps even more so than my six years of Latin.
Our first stop in the beautiful city of Santa Fe was (where else?) the Trader Joe's. All the while I spotted signs for “St. John's College” and I began to more heavily suspect that I was a “Fe Kid.” But that would have to wait to be revealed.